Since this fixture no longer works, I removed everything inside the power supply housing unit.
After fully wrapping the fluorescent light tube with LEDs, I assigned each side of the tube with positive and negative.
As always, please feel free to make your own version of this project.
As a result, one side connects to the positive input and the opposite side connects to the negative input.
Now its time to dissect the old fluorescent light. After unscrewing the underside you should see a fluorescent ballast and a switch attached to the power cable with a couple wire nuts. Just unscrew the wire nuts and twist the two wires apart, leaving you with a plastic shell of a light and two bare wires going to the wall outlet and the switch. Next its time to give the light a heart transplant by switching the old fluorescent driver with the led strip driver. Cut and strip the power supply cord that goes to the led strip driver and reusing the wires nuts, connect the mains power supply to the recently cut and stripped cord. If this seems to advanced for you, just use an extension cord and connect the LED driver’s power supply to the wall, the only reason I made it more complicated then it needed to be was because I wanted it to look neater and to reuse the switch inside the light.
For this step, I wanted a removable LED light that could fit inside the fixture.
looks good! do you have a link for the led strip, how much does it cost?
That’s all the parts you need! Now lets start the conversion from a florescent light to an LED Light!
Once you remove all the unwanted parts, you will be left with a basic circuit that needs to be wired.
I acquired some broken fluorescent fixtures used for aquariums, they are made of mostly aluminum, with metal reflectors, and are of high quality, too good to go to the scrapper. So I converted them to use white LED strip with daisy chainable connectors on both ends. A single salvaged PC power supply will be used to power a few sets. Standard screw-down terminal blocks were used to make the connections, as they are cheap, easy to to utilize, and are rated for 15A per position so that is approx 25 meters of LED strip, but that much won’t be used. I chose to use 5050 type LED strip mixed with 3528 LED strip, to even out the light distribution but mostly to test out the different SMD LED types output’s for future projects.
Having replaced three aquarium light fixtures under warranty, I’ve decided to simply make my own LED version.
And that’s about it! I placed the new and improved lights back onto the aquarium and it looked great! One thing I forgot to mention was to make sure that the remote receiver sticks out a bit, I just used a drill and made a small hole then stuck the receiver through.
By removing 4 screws inside the fixture, we have access to the power supply housing unit.
I also had a single, cheaper fluorescent fixture for aquariums, I did it pretty much the same thing, take a look at the images for details.
The positive red wire from the light fixture connects to the positive red wire from my 12V LED power supply.
If you want to see similar projects, check out the youtube channel.
Do you know what kind of LED lights you used? (How many kelvins?)I’ve read lots saying that it should be around 6700k, and I’ve read lots saying that even some lights that are around that range wouldn’t be that effective in terms of promoting plant growth, not having enough ‘usefull’ (full spectrum) light.Do you have plants, as well? Thanks!
After removing the power supply, you should see two wires originating from the light switch as well as a positive and a negative wire for the light.
Customized Kits are Available, Please Contact Us for Help getting all the parts you need.Parts: Broken/Old Aquarium Fluorescent Light, preferably with a metal reflector 12v LED Strip, non-waterproof, White(cool or warm) 5050 type LEDs and/or 3528 type Store Link 4x 2-position Terminal Blocks, 15A – Digikey PART #ED2582-ND 22AWG Hookup Wire, black 22AWG Hookup Wire, red 18AWG Speaker Wire, or other heavy dual strand wire 12v Power Supply, Amp rating will vary with amount of LEDs, Modified ATX or One from The StoreTools: Soldering Iron and solder Screw Drivers Pliers Hot Glue Gun Drill and Bits Hack Saw
The best way to achieve this is by wrapping the led strip around the fluorescent tube.
Introduction: Convert Fluorescent Light Fixture to LED (Aquarium)
The Force Awakens Animated LED Backlit Movie Poster With Rainbow Mode
* Before you comment the rgb will stress out the fish, just know that I only turned on the rgb flash to demonstrate the LED strips for the video, any other time and the light is set to white *
The power is connected to the device through two screw down terminals soldered together on the ends with a heavy gauge dual-strand wire(I used some 18AWG speaker wire) used to transfer the power from one end to the other.
The power for the LED strips is connected to the screw down terminals, with some of the LED strips getting cross connections.Connectors: 2 sets of paired screw down terminals are required, the insertion holes should be facing the same way for each pair.
Lay them side by side like in the images and solder them together. Make 2 sets.Wiring: Position the terminal on the end cap where it will be when the device is put back together, get an idea of how long to cut your wires so they will reach the terminals from the strips.
Run the heavy gauge power wire under the reflector(out of the way) across to the other end, and cut it. The terminal blocks I used could only hold one strand of 18AWG wire and a single 22AWG wire, so I soldered a wire from one of the polarities (+12v or GND) on one of the light strips to the terminal, on both ends.
So out of the 5 LED strips, there are only 4 connections to the terminals, the rest of the connections(10 total since each of the 5 LED strips requires connection to +12v and GND) are done by cross linking the the strips, pad to pad with some jumper wire.
Don’t fish also need a UV lamp? I think those strips are being sold too…
Once all the connections have been made, the Light can be used on the aquarium.
Before I set everything up, I wanted to test the lights to see if they worked. The setup is quite easy; Plug the power supply into the remote reciever (White Box), Plug the receiver into the lights (Matching both arrows to each other), then plug the power supply into the wall! Using the remote you can turn the lights on and off to test them out. Dont leave them on too long by themselves or it will overheat!
For the LEDs I went with 3 strips of 5050 sized LED strip and 2 strips of 3528 LED strip. The 5050’s have 3 white LEDs in each one, and the 3528 are single LEDs. I was hoping mixing the different types would even out the light distribution a little bit, but I do not think it is necessary, I would have used all 5050 type if I had to choose.
Place the LED Strip: Clean off the reflector surface with some isopropyl alcohol or other solvent. Start with the middle strip, remove a few inches of the tape backing and stick it down close to center as possible.
With the rest of the tape backing still on, position it along the entire length, check that is centered both ways. Optional mark where the end will go down with a sharpie. Remove the rest of the tape backing and place the strip down in the same place that it was test fit.
Repeat with the other strips, keeping them all parallel and straight, I alternated the 5050 type and the 3528 type.
Firstly, we need to remove all the parts that are not needed for the project.
Lastly, I twisted all the wires and carefully placed it inside the old power supply’s housing unit.
Test It: With it mostly unassembled it should be fine to power it up and test it out, look over all your connections and solder joints first, make sure everything is correct. Test the other end to make sure power is correctly transferred through the light.
If it is working correctly….Close It Up: Slide the paired terminal blocks up the slot and position it in the hole, and hot glue in place Reinstall all the screws. Repeat with the other end. Mark the V+ side of the terminals with some red tape It should be all working, ready for installation, and hopefully years of light without ever changing and disposing of a fluorescent bulb.
The lights are extremely bright, and turned out better than I had hoped.I have a 4′ version of the same light that will be made into a 8 Section RGB(24 Channels) DMX-512 Wash Light Utilizing my 24 Channel High Current LED Controller with DMX-512 to Serial Interace(Instructable and Kits available soon)Thanks for Reading, Visit My Profile for more Instructables or Visit my website www.
ChromationSystems.com for More Projects, Downloads, and to shop in The Store for Kits, LEDs, and Parts.
After connecting the switch to the blue negative wire from the light fixture, I connected the other wire from the switch to the black negative wire originating from the 12V LED power supply.
Now its time to hook up the led strips! I used a scrap piece of 90 degree aluminum to act as a heat sink, because the led strips heat up quite a bit when left on for a long time. After using some epoxy to set it in place, I measured the length of led trip I would need to line the aluminum. Then I cut along the dotted line and cut a second piece just as long. Next I peeled off the adhesive backing and stuck the two strips to the aluminum. The next step was just a matter of reconnecting the led strips back together by soldering 4 wires from led strip to led strip, connect positive to positive, negative to negative, and so on.
In this Instructable, we will be converting a defective fluorescent lighting fixture into an LED light fixture.
I really hope you had fun building these lights, and if so, don’t forget to follow me to stay updated on new projects!
Recently, my aquariums fluorescent light died, so naturally I tried to switch the bulb only to find that didn’t work either. Later I found out that the ballast had died after years of use. Instead of buying a new bulky fluorescent light, I decided to convert the lights to LED! The process is quite simple, extremely cheap and is much brighter. Compared to the old fluorescent lights, the new LED lights have saved me money on electricity while looking better at the same time!
We have a be nice policy. Please be positive and constructive.
Since we’ve already wired the internal components with the 12V power supply, all we have to do is turn it on.
The LED Lights even come with a remote making it easier to change the color, tune the brightness or even turn off the lights!
Also, don’t forget to vote for this instructable in the contests! Thanks!
Strip It Down: Each type/brand of light will come apart differently, the model I used is fairly high quality and is mostly aluminum with some plastic ends. Remove all the screws and start pulling it apart, make sure to remember how it goes back together.
Remove the bulb sockets, transformer, power cord, any un-needed parts ect.Prepare the Case: I was going to use panel mount barrel jacks for power but, I wanted to be able to daisy chain the lights so I went with soldering two screw down terminal blocks together, rated for 15A per position.
Skip ahead to Step 4 to see what I mean. To mount them to the end caps of the light, I drilled a 9/16″ hole away from the edge and cut a slot in the plastic with a hacksaw. Later the terminals are slid up the slot and positioned in the hole and hot glued in place.